Suggestions and Solutions for Seacolors yarnery – Sarah M.

Nanne wants to focus on online sales as it requires a significant amount of time and energy to go to shows and maintain all of the running of the business. In my research for Nanne I found several suggestions for finding her, as she calls it, a virtual partner. Ravelry is a company that started in 2007, in Boston, as a free community for primarily knitters but also includes a variety of textile arts. What is great about Ravelry is that it has over 8 million members and allows for the sharing of patterns and ideas freely. I suggested to Nanne that she might advertise on Ravelry forums for a partner who is interested in working on the technological aspect of her business with an interest in sustainability.

Social media has become an effective way to advertise for small and large businesses and I wanted to find some applicable information for Nanne. In my research I found a discussion topic on Ravelry, “Concrete suggestions and advice for building your social media profile” which has some great advise on what social media platforms are worth using and how to get noticed on those platforms. Finally, I suggested that she get in touch with Katy Riley of Tree House Farms as someone who might be a good fit with Nanne. Katie has her own small farm in Millis, MA and has experience running the Newton farmers market. She has also invented a bicycle powered drum carder and works in textile conservation.

A Look at Maine Dye and Textiles – Kylie M

www.mainedye.com

Maine Dye and Textiles is a hands on yarn dyeing company is Saco, Maine. They dye 14 tons of fiber a month! With that much product being dyed, I had to wonder, how sustainable is the business? I was able to talk with Claudia Raessler, the Co-Founder/Business Developer of Maine Dye and Textiles.

Noticing the website feature both natural and synthetic fibers, i felt compelled to ask “Would you want to move away from synthetics, or do you feel the impacts aren’t very harmful?
She answers, “Synthetics in and of themselves are not “harmful”. It is just a type of raw material – i.e. nylon, polyester, armids, etc. which are different from natural protein fibers. The good and bad of dyeing is in the practices followed, the types of dyes used and their chemistry and water usage. One of the biggest issues is equipment. Old equipment which is much of the U.S. inventory uses lots of water. Our old skein dyeing equipment uses 40 gal. of water for every 1/lb. of yarn dyed. Our new package dyeing machine uses 4-5 gal. for each 1/lb. of yarn. The process is different – but the real change is in the technology of the equipment.
How great it is to know technology helps reduce water waste!?

Another question I had actually was “Is there a lot of water waste?
She answered, “The process in a dyehouse is to track the water usage daily, record and report to the city/state where the facility is located. And, yes textile dyeing remains one of the largest negative factors in textile manufacturing from a water consumption perspective.
Along with this, she provided me with an article on textile dyeing as an environmental hazard to give me a better understand on how dye waste has changed over time.

Next I was wondering, “What dyes do you use?
She answered, “We use primarily synthetic dyes some of which are certified under the Global Organic Textile Standards – a European organization as made from organic chemistry.

Next I asked about the main product, the yarn! “Where are your yarns sourced from?
She answers, “We do not ‘purchase’ the yarns – Our customers source their raw materials from all over depending on the type of yarn, volume and spinning resources in a particular country. They ship raw materials to us, we dye it according to their color requirements and then ship it back to them in a final form – skein, cone, etc. This is a very, very basic explanation of the dyeing process.
I find this really interesting the yarn comes from the customers themselves!

Wanting to know about the future of Maine Dye and Textiles, I asked “What changes would you like to see in your company?
She answers, “We started the Company in 2012 first as primarily a “wool” dyehouse offering skein dyeing for all types of natural fibers. In 2016 we moved into dyeing synthetics – nylon & polyester for a different end market than the skein dyeing which is principally B2B arts/crafts, textile artists and businesses selling into these markets. What I would love to change/improve is to beef up our team for customer support in the diverse range of markets we now serve. It is a wide scope in products and types of materials handles and with the implosion of textile mfg. for the last 30 years as textiles are re-shoring – knowledgeable and in-depth expertise has to be re-built.

My final questions for Claudia was, “What issue would you like me to tackle and research to obtain sustainability for Maine Dye House?
With my deadline soon approaching, she answered, “Given the lateness of my responses, I am not sure this is relevant. Having said this – anyone focused on textiles mfg. in the U.S. should spend some time learning and understanding the principles of supply chain mfg; how to reduce transportation costs; and find ways to improve collaboration in what is a relatively “dysfunctional” supply chain.”

To me, it appears she’s learned something herself, and wants this advice out there for anyone looking to start a business. Sometimes, your best advice comes from your own experiences. From her own blog post she sent me, she listed a helpful statistic to back this tip.

 

State of Sustainable Linda Cabot Design Part 2 Tania and Gwynn

Our final interaction with Linda Cabot Design helped finalize some lingering questions concerning their brand including Flipboard and consumer education. They requested more information on how the interface of Flipboard would translate to its consumers, and if it needed to be an application currently existing on an individual’s phone or if it could be universally accessed. This technology can help branch a company’s interests and beliefs via articles/and or blog posts they feel strongly about and possibly connect with like-minded people within a similar community. Flipboard bundles news and social networking all in one, the software allows users to flip through articles, images, and videos being shared. Users are then able to save their own stories they find relative to their interests in categorized shareable “magazines” on their account. Linda Cabot Design can either use their blog posts or gather verified news sources about sustainability onto their account, and have it linked from a QR code printed on their postcards, or their social media accounts. The blog posts could be curated to reflect the value of sustainable/ethical sourcing and how the company using those sources for their products.

In our consumer education research, we found that customers value transparency and want to comprehend the importance of how a product is made. Consumers could access this via a QR code imprinted on seed paper brochures or postcards that would direct them to the Flipboard that include articles of the brand’s interests. We discovered that QR codes would help the business track their use which would be beneficial to the business. Also, we reassured her that there has been a recent resurgence in popularity of QR coded due to the mystery, intrigue, and engaging content they bring. The notion of giving a customer a gift with the seed paper fits perfectly with the company’s aesthetic. Our concept of having an infographic made depicting the lifecycle of a paper vs. cloth napkin was received well by Lynda as an excellent way to educate people of the simple but impactful change of switching to cloth napkins. A core belief in the beginning stages of the brand was geared towards not focusing so much on making everything in your life environmentally friendlier, but just having a more delightful way to live with a beautifully set table and cloth napkins.

The next set of questions Lynda had pertained to Living Ink Technology, and we explained that they were developing a line of biodegradable/renewable algae-based inks. The company Eco Enclose is closely partnering with them to offer black ink on packages and will continue to develop an entire range of products to be used in the future. It could be a vital source to use in the future when the product becomes more commercially available.

The last portion of our research was about leads on new fiber sourcing, specifically, hemp. We were able to connect with Amy Dufault of SENE Fibershed who advised us to look upon their producer directory featured on their website for possible sourcing/networking. A collaboration between Linda Cabot Design and another producer would be a beneficial marketing tool. A SENE Fibershed newsletter is in the works, but for now, individuals can follow their social media for updates on local sustainability movements and news.

Linda Cabot will be integrating our ideas from our research into her company and appreciate the time and effort we have both been able to achieve in such a hectic semester. We have both gained insight through the research and a better understanding of sustainability. Our dedication to educating ourselves led us to work more closely with them during the summer in our respective internships.

Holy Scrap! – Adeline Thibeault

In my next interaction with Bianca I reached out to her with what her concerns are surrounding sustainability. This was a chance for me to encounter some real world problems and help to offer solutions. These challenges are tough, but also extremely exciting. It was time to put myself to the test and see what I could offer.

The first challenge was to sustain her small business model. As a small business operating on Etsy most of Bianca’s concerns surround managing business growth as well as keeping up her branding and visibility during a competitive Etsy age. “As I become busier, I recognize that hiring employees will become inevitable.”, Bianca says. Bianca’s model works along a cycle of production, posting and selling. She has since been looking into various other business models like that of Bret Kerns (ceramic artist), who will work for several weeks and release an entire body of work. This cycle of working allows for space between the creative process and the practical business side of things.

The issue of hiring alternative employee’s also latches itself into her next concern, which is new innovation. Specifically, what to do with her smaller pieces of scrap fabric. These are the bits that cannot be recycled because of their size. Already, she knows ways that she could innovate. For example, creating a new fabric through dissolvable fabric and stitching. However, projects like these take time that she simply does not have.

Since the root of most of these problems is manpower this was the first component of my research. It is important to keep in mind that Bianca’s business works from her home. Though this may be problematic for a full time employee. In the meantime, Bianca could consider hiring interns. This could include a range of students from business, fashion design, and textile design. Not only would she be gaining a whole lot of extra help, she would also be giving experience to students that aspire to work creatively and independently as well. Freelancing or subcontracting is another form of temporary employment that can allow the freelancer to work from their home or studio. Similarly, it is a form of employment that does not require benefits and can be a great help to Bianca if she’s seeking someone with a particular skill set. For example, if someone is particularly good at repurposing fabric then they can work part-time with Bianca to create cloth that she can use in her garments. In this way, she can expand on the range of things she is able to produce, ultimately focusing a little less on time and a little more on creativity.

These both are temporary solutions to her business as it still may be inevitable that a second location and more employees will still be on the table in the future.

When it comes to incorporating fabric scraps into her fashion design, there is an array of possibilities already available on the internet. This includes the fabric sulky and sew method as well as ways to make twine, trim, and bangles. It is also possible for Bianca to team up with a textile school nearby (UMass Dartmouth, RISD). To come up with an innovative way of incorporating the scraps. This way, the students can integrate the challenge and further their awareness of sustainable textiles.

Natural Dyes – Up on the Star Store roof! Kylie M.

Our class is currently experimenting with various methods of natural dyeing. Using natural extracts from tree barks, bugs, and different plants all over the world, we started dyeing with a stove, pot and water. The students properly prepped, mordanted (the metallic salts of aluminum that help the dyes to “bite” the fiber) and soaked wool yarn and silk fabric. Taking our focus on sustainability a little further, we were redirected to solar dyeing by our professor; as most natural dyes require an hour or more of simmering, using the sun produces good results without the BTUs and fossil fuels; the process just takes a bit longer. It’s similar to the method we dyed on the stove, but instead we use the sun’s rays to heat our dye vats. The students were each given a gallon sized mason jar, wool yarn, and silk fabric to dye in the natural extract they wanted. After prepping their mason jars to dye, everyone was taken to the roof of the building. Though roof access is normally restricted, but special permission was given to this class! All eight jars of dye are currently on our roof for the next month soaking in the heat New England has to offer this Spring. Are you anticipating seeing the results as much as we are?

Natural dyeing Day 1: Charlotte

Here we go! This is the first boiling of eucalyptus bark, sent to the class by Katy, a blog subscriber in California. The pieces were broken up into 2-3″ shards and then boiled twice to get this deep rich brown color. We’ll be using it to dye next week – first we’re going up on the Star Store roof for some solar gain dyeing…check in tomorrow!