After discussion with Gabrielle McHugh from Merida, the goal of my project became focused on the exploration of safe and sustainable labor practices, specifically how to ensure that partners pairing with Merida were practicing sustainable labor practices. It turns out, that this is a very difficult subject and so far there are no real good answers yet. This of course has not prevented people from trying to address the issue, especially where child labor is concerned. Currently, Merida has worked to seek out suppliers that are certified by Goodweave (an international organization committed to ending child labor and promoting sustainable labor practices in industry supply chains) and SA 8000 (an international labor certification created and standardized by Social Accountability International). These certifications currently assist Merida in determining who to partner with but don’t necessarily cover all bases.

During the course of my research I found that the best line of attack when looking to ensure sustainable labor practices was to always do your research on the company/studio/person you were planning on partnering with and then once partnered, working in tandem with the partner to ensure that goals align and standards are being met. The second thing that became apparent was that the next thing to do was to solidify a Code of Conduct and Ethics into company policy that included sustainable labor goals. This would make these goals something that could be enforced internally and company wide as well as making crystal clear to any potential partners of a sincere dedication to sustainable labor practices. Lastly, the most important thing I have found over the course of my research is company motivation. The only way to truly ensure that safe and sustainable labor practices are being practiced is to always be aware and actively seek out people who are willing to put these practices in place and work to make sure all sustainable labor goals are being met.

Sustainability as a movement has been growing, how have you seen its effects on the textile industry?

GM: There has been some effect driven by LEED* certification, especially in commercial projects. This applies mostly to larger players in the industry rather than to smaller companies who do not participate much in larger commercial projects.

In your view, what does it mean to be environmentally sustainable as a company?

GM: Being a sustainable company is more than just being environmentally conscious. It also encompasses social concern – labor standards of suppliers and the well-being of employees and other stake holders.

What current practices (materials, sourcing, manufacture, shipping, etc.) do you have that relate to sustainability?

GM: We use only rapid replenishable material in our rugs – with one exception for tufted rugs. In developing countries, we work with supplier that have SA 8000* and/or Goodweave* certification. One of our suppliers does not have the certification but they work only for us. They are pretty small family business and we (through visits and having developed a trusting relationship) are sure they share our values.

Have you found it easy or difficult to find suppliers and manufacturers for your products that adhere to sustainable practices? Please explain.

GM: We have had the same suppliers for many years (decades) so we have not have not had to find a supplier in many years. The most recent one – about 5 years ago – from India has the SA 8000.

How is sustainability reflected in your long and short term goals as a company?

GM: It is part of what we are: as far as we can foresee we will only work with natural materials – both of animal and plant origin.

What is one problem relating to your sustainability goals/issues you have identified, that you would like me to address over the course of this project?

GM: Our view on sustainability includes and extends beyond environmental concerns. While using renewable materials at the base of products, we also want to ensure that internally and externally (our internal partners) are practicing safe and sustainable labor practices. For overseas partners this means working with suppliers that meet SA 8000 and/or Goodweave certifications.

*LEED, SA 8000, Goodweave are certifications provided to businesses utilizing green building practices, employee friendly workplace practices and businesses who do not employ child labor. For more information:

http://leed.usgbc.org/leed.html

http://www.sa-intl.org/index.cfm

https://goodweave.org/

Merida is a textile company specializing in rugs made of mostly natural materials such as sisal, cotton, linen, mohair, silk, alpaca and wool. An American company, they take pride in their efforts to create beautifully designed rugs while remaining committed to sustainability.  Gabrielle McHugh is a textile designer for Merida. You can learn more at: www.meridastudio.com