I am so impressed with the concerns raised by our students about how the Textiles studios are attending to our responsibilities towards sustainability. Wow, we got a couple “C”s!! (Click on the right hand column link to Our own house posts). Bravo to your honesty and  thoughtful, salient assessments and recommendations. We are going to address each one and move forward towards our goal of an environmentally and ethically supported studio and practice. (The photo above is the current state of our brainstorming board – the result of the research, thinking, reading, lively discussion that this semester has produced thus far. Virtually all elements are interconnected but for visual clarity we didn’t draw them in…yet.)

1. Concern: Supplementary dyeing agents like thiox, soda ash, citric acid, urea, sodium alginate, ammonium sulfate, synthrapol, vinegar, monogum, bleach, baking soda, salt, and ludigol must be stored in airtight container in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area.                                                             Rating: C

Suggested Improvement: We suggest having the supplementary agents’ containers be moved from the metal table into a storage cabinet, where they would be organized into each type. Each container should have a largely visible label indicating what it is, rather than it written in sharpie marker. The marker fades over time, making it harder to identify the substance in the container. Without proper organization or clear labels for the supplementary agents, students are more prone to spill or use the wrong agent leading to unnecessary material waste and mess.

2. Concern: Washfast Acid Dyes and Mx Fiber Reactive Dyes need to be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space locked up, away from oxidizing and reducing agents.

Rating: C

Suggested improvement: To avoid a mix up of powdered dye, the Washfast Acid Dyes and Mx Fiber Reactive Dyes should be placed on different shelves and further organized in a lock-up cabinet. To assist students with putting back the dye powders back on the designated shelves, a color sticker indicating which type of dye it is could be placed on the top of the cap. A blue sticker would be put on every Washfast Acid Dye container lid and a red sticker on the Mx Fiber Reactive Dyes container lid. The shelf where the dyes would be stored would also have a red or blue label to assist further and indicate to the student were each dye belongs. On the door of the cabinet, there would be a helpful poster explaining the sticker color system.

3. Concern: Signs informing students of proper disposal and spill protocol.

Rating: B

Suggested improvements: There are signs informing students of how to safely dispose and clean a spill of Mx Fiber Reactive Dyes and Wash fast Acid Dyes, but they could be made more visible to students. We suggest printing the signs larger and laminating them so they are easier to read and will last longer. The signs should be placed in 2-3 different areas, near the supplementary agents, the lockup dye cabinet, and another highly visible spot in the lab, like the doors. Large, colorful and laminated signs should be posted inside and outside the dye lab. Possible places to put signs are on the doors and cabinet containing the dyes. Closed toed shoes should also be enforced with a sign on the entrances to the dye lab saying closed toed shoes are required. If possible extra gloves, goggles, respirators, and aprons should be provided

4. Concern: Measuring cups, spoons, other dye accessory storage.

Rating: B+

Suggested improvement: here are enough measuring tools in the dye lab but, further organization and relabeling are required. A lot of the measuring spoon’s and cup’s labels have worn off, making it hard to tell what measurement it is. We suggest going through them and relabel them or get rid of the bad ones and replacing them with newer ones.

5. Concern: Personal Protective Equipment

Currently, the dye lab relies on people remembering to bring their own gloves, apron, respiratory mask, and protective eyewear and does not carry any extra equipment in the event of something breaking or someone forgetting something. The lab also does not have enough reminders about requiring the use of personal protective equipment when dyeing.

Rating: C

Suggested improvements: Large, colorful and laminated signs should be posted inside and outside the dye lab. Possible places to put signs are on the doors and cabinet containing the dyes. Closed toed shoes should also be enforced with a sign on the entrances to the dye lab saying closed toed shoes are required. If possible extra gloves, goggles, respirators, and aprons should be provided

Sources: https://www.dharmatrading.com/info/fiber-reactive-dye-general-information.html

Prochemicalanddye.com MSDS

http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/indigo.html#indigo-natural-synthetic

https://www.pure-chemical.com/msds/Soda_ash.pdf

https://labricoleuse.livejournal.com/10331.html

https://sunproductsmsdsbrand.thewercs.com

http://dept.harpercollege.edu/chemistry/msds/Vinegar%20ScholAR.pdf

Weaving yarns: Purchased Yarn (versus yarn donated)

 Overall Rating          A      

Most Sustainable Fibers?

• Linen, Cashmere, Organic Cotton, Wool, Rayon

So long as your weaving closet holds a majority of fibers such as these you’re in good shape.

The weaving closet gets an A due to the fact that the majority of yarns that are used are cotton based. The Halcyon Yarn (which weaving classes use the most) is 100% cotton. Although the dyeing process and main source for the yarns are unclear, Halcyon highlights their care for the environment.

Least sustainable Fibers

• Polyester, acrylic, gimp: Non-recyclable/ biodegradable materials

 Yarn Use and Waste

 Overall Rating           A-

 Besides tossing the ends of the warp, which in unavoidable, there is no other dumpster waste from the weaving process itself.

Biggest concern- Fray Check. Contains Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate and Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymers.

Good News- Completely not necessary for a weaving!

 Wool Roving for Felting (White and Dyed)

 Overall Rating           A

 Naturally colored Roving vs. pure white vs. dyed

A Little bit about COLOR

Color
In the commercial market, white wool is more valuable than colored wool because it can be dyed any color. Even the wool from sheep with white faces is more valuable than the wool from sheep with dark or moddled faces because the fleeces from non-white face sheep may contain colored wool or hairs which cannot be dyed. In contrast, naturally colored wools are often favored in the niche markets.

http://www.sheep101.info/wool.html

Dyeing Wool uses acid dyes which is used for protein fibers. Although the water waste from acid dye is acidic, it can be easily diluted with regular water. Pros: water is clear after dyeing due to high absorbancy of dyes into wool.

Our closet: We order most of our fabric and roving from Dharma Trading Co. (a good environmentally aware Company). Studio has naturally colored wool, dyed wool, and merino wool and only one bag of bleached wool.

 Murphy’s Oil Soap for felting

 Overall Rating            B.   See Image above for ingredients and concerns

For these concerns, Murphy’s receives a B. There are definitely eco-friendly soaps on the market. For example, the company booda organics makes soaps and laundry soaps from simple pure ingredients. As for the products’ effectiveness for felting wool, it will be tested by Textiles this semester.

 Sources:

https://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/do-you-know-which-fabrics-are-most-sustainable.html

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=11&ved=2ahUKEwjj49vb_9fgAhXpYN8KHRs0A8wQFjAKegQIBxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fm.dritz.com%2Ffile%2F21546%2Fdownload%2F%3Ftoken%3DVxJCNMLr&usg=AOvVaw33yNrnP7LR5DrTh-2Y8-s3 

https://halcyonyarn.com

http://www.sheep101.info/wool.html

https://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/349-MurphyOilSoapOriginalFormula

https://www.ewg.org/guides/brand/6474-Dawn

http://www.vandafsousa.com/soap-for-wet-felting-101/

https://boodaorganics.com/products/suds-of-love-laundry-soap?variant=12194507620453&utm_campaign=gs-2018-10-03&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/product/701955/Soap_for_Goodness_Sake_Goat_Milk_Soap%2C_Oatmeal_and_Honey_/

Towards zero waste in sewing studio:

A lot of waste fabric and thread from cutting out pattern pieces. This is mostly re-usable.

Collecting fabric scraps is done in bins locate in both studios. Collecting threads could be coordinated with the weaving studio’s thrums collection. One resource described an “orts” container:

“Orts are the tiny snippets of thread left over from sewing and embroidery. For many generations and in many cultures these bits of thread held great importance. On a base level, they represented a part of a resource (thread) that still had use as fire starter materials, stuffing, etc. But there was a higher significance as well. These were remnants of the spirit of the artists or crafts persons who used them. So, like hair or cast off clothes, orts gained a spiritual designation and were saved for special uses. They have been found in “Witch Jars” in Viking Era York and Colonial Era New England in both Pagan and Christian context. In Latin America, they are mixed in with the straw in the Christmas Manger Scene. Overall, they are considered to be lucky and full of positive energy.”

Source: Work of My Hands

Multiple suggestions for thread and fabric scraps re-purposing are available at: in addition to using them

in new garment construction….

https://youtu.be/ROA0gmq29fI  Using a soluble carbohydrate fabric base, use the fabric and thread scraps to form and embellish new works.

http://www.agytextileartist.com/2017/12/how-to-upcycle-your-scrap-threads.html?m=1:

1. If scraps/threads are all cotton, place them outside for birds to use for nesting material.
2. Donate them to preschool for arts and crafts
3. Filling for toys and cushions: scrap fabric and threads make perfect stuffing
4. Use them for your mending projects
5. Incorporate them into wet felting